Ingredient highlight – peptides

It is easy to get confused with a variety of skincare ingredients available on the market. One of the more confusing ones is peptides. They are advertised as a star ingredient for signs of aging, but are peptides that effective? What are peptides, and how do they benefit the skin? Which ones should you look for?

What are peptides?

Peptides are short chains of amino-acids and the main component of proteins that make up our bodies. Collagen and elastin fibres are made out of proteins and give our skin the bounce, firmness, and elasticity. Over time, the collagen in our skin breaks down, and it results in wrinkles, loss of firmness, and elasticity.

How do peptides work?

Peptides are essential for our body and work in numerous ways. For example, if you have an injury, they’ll signal your body it needs to heal. In skincare, they fall into three major groups.

The most popular in skincare products are the signalling peptides. The clue is in the name – they signal our skin to produce more collagen or protect the existing collagen and other proteins. This group includes palmitoyl peptides and tetra-, and hexapeptides.

Carrier peptides are another popular group and help deliver trace minerals to the skin. The most popular in this group are the copper peptides.

Enzyme inhibitor peptides inhibit the enzymes (like MMP) responsible for the degradation of collagen, elastin, and other proteins.

Neutrotransmitter inhibitor peptides prevent acetylcholine release. It is a neurotransmitter and an essential part of the muscle contraction process.

Keratin peptides help improve the skin’s barrier function and alleviate dryness and dehydration.

What are the benefits of peptides for the skin?

Since there are so many peptides, different peptides support the skin in different ways.

  • peptides signal our skin to make more collagen which gets degraded as we get older.
  • by boosting collagen synthesis, they help minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and make the skin more elastic and firmer.
  • some peptides help protect existing collagen from degradation.
  • peptides help lock in the moisture and strengthen the moisture barrier.
  • peptides help heal the skin.

Do you need peptides in your skincare routine?

Peptides are worth investigating since they are an excellent boost to a skincare routine. That said, don’t put away your antioxidants, retinol, and acids. The same applies to skin-replenishing ingredients ceramides and niacinamide. Think of peptides as an add-on that works in synergy with other heavy-hitters in your routine.

Ishtar products with peptides

Hydro-Magic Collagen Catalyst is a hydrating serum with Syncoll™ (Tripeptide-5). In clinical trials, Tripeptide-5 significantly reduced wrinkle depth over 28 days. It increases collagen synthesis by stimulating the skin’s natural growth factor TGF-β (Tissue Growth Factor). Likewise, it helps improve the skin’s elasticity and firmness.

Perfect & Glow Vitamin C serum – a vitamin C serum with Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Superoxide Dismutase, and Peptide P3. This peptide improves hydration, minimises the appearance of fine lines, and is referred to as a non-acidic alternative to skin resurfacing.

Hydrocharge facial oil is a multi-action facial oil. It restores and maintains the skin’s barrier, as well as blocks collagen degrading chemicals. Hydrocharge contains Anhydrous Hyaluronic Acid Liposomes with Tripeptide-29. This peptide encourages collagen synthesis.

Lip Plenish Line Renewal Serum uses peptides and microencapsulated Hyaluronic acid to boosts lip collagen and hyaluronic acid levels. By doing that, it reduces the appearance of lip lines. Lip Plenish Line Renewal Serum contains Hexapeptide 11, a nourishing peptide that regulates lipids, Hyaluronic acid, and collagen and minimises fine lines and wrinkles. Tripeptide 29 helps increase the lip fullness by increasing fibroblast activity for ‘Collagen 1’ synthesis by a massive 400%.

Do you use a peptide product? Are you happy with the results?

Roberta Striga